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Coupling of electron and vibrational spectroscopy with false colour imaging for the investigation of natural dyes in historical fabrics (15th–18th centuries)

European physical journal plus, 2023-07, Vol.138 (7), p.634, Article 634 [Peer Reviewed Journal]

The Author(s) 2023 ;The Author(s) 2023. This work is published under http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ (the “License”). Notwithstanding the ProQuest Terms and Conditions, you may use this content in accordance with the terms of the License. ;info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess ;ISSN: 2190-5444 ;EISSN: 2190-5444 ;DOI: 10.1140/epjp/s13360-023-04248-y

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Title:
Coupling of electron and vibrational spectroscopy with false colour imaging for the investigation of natural dyes in historical fabrics (15th–18th centuries)
Author: de Ferri, Lavinia ; Campanella, Beatrice ; Martignon, Alice ; Vallotto, Davide ; Tomaini, Benedetta ; Legnaioli, Stefano ; Pojana, Giulio
Subjects: 18th century ; Acids ; Applied and Technical Physics ; Atomic ; Color ; Complex Systems ; Condensed Matter Physics ; Cultural heritage ; Dyeing ; Dyes ; Embossing ; Flavonoids ; Focus Point on Scientific Research in Cultural Heritage 2022 ; Fragments ; Image acquisition ; Mathematical and Computational Physics ; Mixtures ; Molecular ; Mordant dyes ; Nanoparticles ; Optical and Plasma Physics ; Physics ; Physics and Astronomy ; Regular Article ; Substrates ; Textiles ; Theoretical
Is Part Of: European physical journal plus, 2023-07, Vol.138 (7), p.634, Article 634
Description: A series of historical textile fragments belonging to the Guggenheim collection had been previously studied by FORS and IRR imaging. The need for further analysis emerged in order to get a better understanding of the applied dyes. Under this perspective, SERS measurements and false colour images (UVFC and IRFC) were acquired on selected samples dated back between the fifteenth and the eighteenth centuries and constituted by velvets, embossed velvets, brocades, brocatelles, damasks, lampasses, satins, gros and taffetas of Italian manufacture. The cross-checking of spectroscopic data allowed for confirming some of the results previously obtained, but in the majority of cases much more complex situations were found. On many occasions, SERS and FORS demonstrated their complementarity allowing for discovering the use of mixtures instead of single dye as previously assumed. In addition to indigotin, cochineal and tannins, already identified in the previous investigation, new data allowed for determining the presence of orcein, annatto, luteolin, quercetin and saffron. The FC images supported the obtained results but evidenced the need for the generation of a complete database of historical dyes employed with different dyeing procedures, substrates, mordants and as mixtures with different proportions. The multi-technique approach, involving both non-invasive and micro-invasive methods, also allowed for checking the compatibility of compounds with both the declared historical period and the origin of the investigated textile fragments.
Publisher: Berlin/Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg
Language: English;Norwegian
Identifier: ISSN: 2190-5444
EISSN: 2190-5444
DOI: 10.1140/epjp/s13360-023-04248-y
Source: SpringerOpen(OpenAccess)

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Coupling of electron and vibrational spectroscopy with false colour imaging for the investigation of natural dyes in historical fabrics (15th–18th centuries)

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